Look in my tackle boxes, and you’ll find a lot of lures, hooks and rigs that have been catching fish for decades…or longer. Those unimpressive purple plastic worms rigged on a Tru-Turn bass hook with a bullet sinker still fools bass. The WhoopAss Bucktail jigs continue to catch stripers, hybrids, snapper, grouper, cobia and a variety of other species. And my scratched up MirroLures will catch just about anything that swims. These rigs have been doing the job for as long as I can remember. And for the most part, they still are a vital part of my go-to portfolio of confidence lures and rigs.
Every season, tackle manufacturers debut new lures that are sure to be the next wave in fish-catching. Some of them are so realistic, it’s almost impossible to distinguish them from the real thing. In truth, many of them are essentially the same lure with a different coat of paint, a slightly different swimming action, or a different size. And, yes, they will also catch fish.
Every so often a rig comes along that has a distinct impact on the sport. Remember when Alabama Rigs first came out. They were so effective, many tournaments banned them from use. Some state regulations now only let you have three hooks on a five-hook rig. It is crazy how these micro versions of the time-tested umbrella rig attract gamefish. And a lot of companies jumped on the bandwagon to produce similar (but improved) versions of that rig. The Captain Mack’s Mini-Mack and Project X X-Rig are two good examples of taking a good idea and making it even better.
Hard plastic and soft plastic swim baits have been around forever; and are probably the most continuously updated lure style. My grandfather had one of the original Animated Minnows, and lots of lures from Creek Chub and Heddon. They all caught fish. Fast-forward fifty years and innovations in manufacturing have created more lifelike action, with amazing graphics. Two that come to mind are the Sebile Magic Swimmer and Savage Gear’s 4 Play 2.0 look like real baitfish swimming in the water, and they catch fish. In the soft plastic realm, the paddle-tail lures have really come into the limelight. And new ways to rig them, like using a Flutter Hook, are putting lots of fish in the cooler in both fresh and saltwater.
Spoons and jigs have been used since caveman days. Although they were primitive, they still put meat on the table. Today’s shinier versions work on the same principles, but now we have terms like Slow-Jigging, Deep-Dropping, and Butterflying. These tactics all revolve around dropping a heavy piece of metal over the side and use a variety of retrieve tactics to entice a bite. Our ancestors did the same thing with their homemade rigs…they just called it “fishing”.
They say you can’t teach an old dog, new tricks. After thinking about it, I’d say the old tricks worked pretty good back then and still do today. But regardless of whether you’re fishing with this year’s latest gadget, or a rig that your grandfather used, the key is to get out on the water and start fishing. I really don’t think a hungry fish cares whether it’s the latest rage or a time-tested favorite. So while you’re re-stocking your tackle box for spring fishing, consider blowing the dust off some of those old standby’s from a few years ago too. I’d wager if they caught fish a few years ago, they’ll still catch fish today.
If you own a boat, you probably own a trailer. Perhaps you launch and load your boat each time you use it. Or maybe you keep your boat in the water during the summer months and only use your trailer to store the boat out of the water in the winter. Believe it or not, trailers that get used more often tend to last longer because the owners perform regular maintenance and catch issues before they become major headaches.
Whether your trailer gets used once a week or once a year, it’s important to keep it in good shape because there’s nothing worse that having a fun boating day or a fishing trip cut short due to trailer problems.
Here’s a few Nuts & Bolts Trailering Pro Tips to help keep your trailer in tip top condition and insure you get to the boat ramp on time.
#1 – Check your tires…regularly. Run the rated air pressure in the tires. You can see the recommended pressure stamped on the sidewall. Look for signs of uneven wear in the treads…this could indicate an axle alignment issue or wheel balance issue. If a tire is starting to crack or show signs of old age, replace it. Also, check the lug nuts on the wheels for correct torque, and add little grease to each wheel bearing.
#2 – Check your winch, winch lock, and winch strap. Give the gears a little lithium grease. Check the winch lock and rachet are fully functional. And thoroughly examine every inch of your winch strap. If it’s starting to fray a little, replace it. You should also have a safety chain attached to the trailer, which then attaches to the bow eye. And speaking of safety chains, you should have safety chains that connect from the trailer to your tow vehicle. Criss-cross them under the trailer tongue.
#3 – Check your trailer lights. This is probably the most common issue with trailers. Wire connections and bulb sockets get corroded. The harness connector pins can corrode or bend. And we’ve all seen lots of trailers with broken-off tail lights, and busted amber side lights. Before you leave the driveway, check running lights, brake lights and turn-signals.
#4 – Check the brakes and brake fluid. This is pretty easy. If you have surge brakes on your trailer (most do), just pull it a few hundred feet with your tow vehicle and press the brakes. The trailer should not ‘push’ your vehicle. Check the fluid reservoir on the trailer tongue.
#5 – Trailer Jack & Wheel. This is the one thing that seldom gets checked before leaving, and can be the most aggravating of all. Check the trailer jack and wheel. If it sticks when raising or lowering, or the wheel is rusted in place, or the crank is bent…take my advice and replace it.
These five things should provide the maintenance basics to get you to, and from, the boat ramp. There are a few others things worth mentioning. If your trailer has been sitting in the driveway for a while, whether it has the boat on it or not…take it for spin around the block every couple months. It helps prevent ‘flat’ spots on your tires, and keeps the bearings lubricated. I always put a safety pin in the coupler lock once it’s on the trailer ball. It’s an extra measure of safety. You do not want to see your trailer and boat passing you on the highway because the coupler wasn’t totally locked down.
Of course, don’t forget to properly maintain your tow vehicle. Check the oil, coolant, brakes, lights, and condition of your tow hitch. A small bit of lithium grease on the hitch ball will help the trailer tongue slide on an off easier. Always carry at least two wheel chocks in the tow vehicle. If you happen to have a flat tire, or have to disconnect the trailer for some reason, you’ll definitely want to have the chocks for the tires. Having a heavy duty jack, like a bottle jack…and a couple of 4X4 blocks, along with a battery powered impact driver and socket set will be a huge asset if you have to do any repairs while away from home.
When the boat is off the trailer, inspect the bunks and the bunk coverings. Some bunks are covered with carpet, some with a vinyl encapsulation. Look for torn places, staples or nails that are sticking up. Replace worn carpet, and/or questionable bunk boards. While the boat’s off, this is also a good time to inspect the brake lines, wiring, axles, and the bolts and weld joints on the trailer. And also the nuts/bolts and u-bolts that hold your winch on the the brace. They can loosen from just riding down the road.
Finally, be sure to rinse your entire trailer with lots of clean, fresh water every time. If it has a brake washdown system with a hose connector…do that. Take care of your trailer and it will take care of your boat on the highway.
If you fish virtually any of the southeastern impoundments, you’ll notice the birds have returned for the winter. Seagulls and loons are getting fat on the abundance of bait available right now, and they will typically stay around for another month or so. For us anglers, the birds give us a lot of insight on where to fish. They can also be quite deceiving as well.
First let’s examine seagulls. While seagulls can dive a foot or two in the water, they aren’t built for long, submerged foraging dives like loons and gannets. Instead, they rely on gamefish to corral the bait into tight wads and push them toward the surface. Once the buffet is skittering on the top, the seagulls can easily swoop down and pick a treat right off the table. So if you see seagulls whirling and skimming the surface, you know there’s bait in the area, and there are gamefish directly beneath the bait.
On the other hand, loons can do their own foraging. You may see a loon drop below the waves, and pop up one hundred, or more, feet away. Loons also work in groups, like gamefish, to herd the bait into large pods so they can gorge themselves a lot easier. Because loons are ‘hunters’, where seagulls are ‘opportunists’, sighting loons actively working and feeding may not always indicate the presence of gamefish in the area. Also seeing seagulls whirling over a group of loons doesn’t necessarily mean there’s gamefish in the area. The seagulls may simply be benefiting from the efforts of the loons instead of fish.
If you see a raft of seagulls lounging on the surface…and sometimes there will literally be hundreds floating together…that’s a good place to mark on your Simrad chartplotter. They are there for a reason. There’s probably bait in the area, but it’s scattered for the moment, and they are waiting for a herd of gamefish to bring them to the surface. I don’t usually spend a lot of time fishing around floating birds, but I’ll keep my binoculars handy and keep an eye on them. You’ll get a sense of what’s in the area pretty quickly, and can monitor several flocks at the same time. When a flock gets active, you can maneuver to the vicinity.
A couple words of caution. Don’t, I mean don’t, blast over to the middle of an actively feeding flock of gulls. You’ll usually wind up causing the bait…and the fish…to scatter and go deep. Instead, motor within a few hundred feet, and ease toward them on your trolling motor. You can also get a sense of which direction the birds, bait and fish are moving. Then plot an intercept course to have the fish come to you. This gives you time to put your own bait spread out, and wait for the bite. Casting topwater plugs, like MirroLure Top Dogs, Zara Spooks and Chug Bugs will draw explosive strikes. Casting rigs like the Project-X X-Rig will get you multiple hook-ups. And planer boards and umbrella rigs are an excellent way to put your baits in the strike zone too, although these take longer to deploy.
A lot of ‘bird-fishing’ is Run-And-Gun fishing. Find a flock, get within casting distance, make a few casts and move on. This kind of action, while exciting, typically lasts just a few minutes at each location. So be ready, with both live baits and casting lures.
This kind of technique is visual, it’s fun and will test your skill for long-distance and accurate casts. But the reward of having everyone on the boat hooked to a monster is worth the effort.
If you live near a southern impoundment, you’ll notice the loons have arrived! And they are here for one reason…to fill their bellies. Every winter loons and seagulls show up on our area lakes to feed on schools of threadfins, shiners and herring. For us anglers, the loons are beacons that tell us where to fish. They are extremely efficient anglers themselves, literally flying beneath the surface as they feed.
And where there is bait, there will also be stripers, hybrids and bass close by.
Actively diving loons are a sure indicator of bait in the area. They work in pairs or large groups. When you see the large floating groups of loons, that’s a great place to drop your live herring, or troll a Captain Mack’s Umbrella rig or a Project-X X-Rig. Casting spoons and bucktail jigs will also generate a bite.
Now, sometimes loons can fool us anglers too. If they are actively feeding, it does indicate a presence of bait. However, there may not be gamefish right there. Remember, there’s lots of bait pods in the lake, and the schools might be targeting a wad of bait 100 yards away from the group of loons. So you may have to do a little looking around.
In the coming weeks, the seagulls will show up, and that’s when it gets really interesting. Seagulls cannot dive in the water for food. They rely on something else, like loons or gamefish, to push the bait to the surface…and they swoop down to pick their meals off the top of the water. Seagulls will hang around flocks of loons for this reason. And, they have great eyesight from above, so they can see schools of stripers working bait below. Sometimes you’ll have all three working together, and that’s the money spot. If you see seagulls whirling and diving, and there are no loons around, get ready for an awesome bite. And this is true for both spotted bass and largemouth as well.
Right now, most lake temperatures are steadily dropping. Temps are in the mid to upper 50’s right now. That’s perfect water for stripers and hybrids.
Fish the major creeks, and you may need to go all the way to the backs of them to find the schools of bait. The key from now til the early spring will be to find bait. Typically, you’ll be fishing water less than 60 feet, but because the lakes are turning over, and dissolved oxygen will be good throughout the water column, you could find them very deep, especially on a sunny day. Start early, and shallow, then move to the deeper pockets around the creek mouths.
If your local bait store has rainbow trout or large gizzard shad available, be sure to put a few of those in your baitwell too. Gizzard shad are hardy, and will last all day in the well. And, provided you hook them correctly, they will last a good while on the troll. Bigger baits will attract larger fish. But always keep a couple of smaller baits in your spread too, like bluebacks or shiners. Remember the old saying… “Elephants eat peanuts.”
Capt. Mack’s Umbrella Rigs, Project-X X-Rigs, and Project-X Saucertails in white will draw strikes. Try putting a small 00 Clark Spoon on the center leader of an umbrella rig. And both downlined and freelined herring are good choices. Pulling planer boards close to the bank will get you some great bites, and a bonus spotted bass too.
You can get all your striper gear, lures and rigs at www.NutsAndBoltsFishing.com. We’ll get you hooked up! And watch our TV episodes on catching stripers and hybrids on CarbonTV.com.
Trying to find a holiday gift for someone who loves to fish? That can be one of the most difficult tasks of the year. First, because they probably have too much stuff already, and it would be almost impossible to buy a lure, a reel, or a fishing accessory they really need. And second, because whatever you buy them will most likely end up on a shelf, gathering dust. Buying me $25 flashy lures that I’ll never use, is kind of a waste of money…at least for me. And I’d bet many folks who fish on a regular basis might tell you the same thing. Anglers can be a fickle group of folks. I know because I am one.
So, I searched my memory for things that I use a lot. Stuff I need to replace regularly because it wears out, or gets used up, or I drop it in the water and lose it. Sound familiar?
Here’s a few Gifts, Gadgets and Doohickeys you can stuff in your favorite angler’s stocking, or put under the tree this holiday season. I’d be really happy to get any of these.
Fishing pliers. Get the really good ones. The cheap ones will rust after one fishing trip. Get titanium or aluminum so they are less prone to rusting. Cuda and Project-X make good ones for less than $40. Or produce a very big smile by giving a set of Van Staal titanium pliers for around $350.
A good multi-tool. Again, stay away from the cheap ones that have 30 blades and cost $10. Go with a quality brand like Leatherman or Gerber and choose one that just has a few tools on it.
FoodSaver vacuum sealer system. Frozen filets will keep longer. Get a couple extra rolls of sealing bags too.
If your angler owns a boat, get them a gift certificate for a full clean and wax from a boat detailing company. Nothing looks better than a shiny boat on the water.
Practical gadgets are always appreciated. A LED headlamp that clamps on the bill of a ball cap. Get one with both red and white LED’s. Line clippers on a retractable spool. A pair of compact binoculars…the Nikon Aculons are about $60, and they are great.
Stepping up in the price category…for less than $250 you can slip a Scotty Downrigger under the tree. A Scotty Strongarm manual deploy/retrieve downrigger will put baits and lures down deep at precise depths. The Scotty DepthPower electric provides fully automatic retrieve with the click of a button and runs around $550.
If your angler ventures offshore, an EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) is a must-have. When things go wrong at sea, and you need help quick, an EPRIB sends a satellite signal to the Coast Guard and relays your position. It’s the best way to have peace of mind to know you’ve got a means to reach out for help, because cell phones don’t have service miles offshore. And ACR GlobalFix will run about $450.
And something every boater should have is a membership with TowBoat US. The basic freshwater membership is around $90 a year and includes towing, jump starts, soft ungroundings, and fuel delivery. Saltwater membership is around $150 per year.
If you’re still having trouble finding the perfect item, gift cards from Bass Pro, Cabela’s, West Marine are always a good back-up. I personally love gift cards because I can buy exactly what I want.
Be sure to throw in some sunscreen, bug spray and single use lens cleaning wipes.
Then put it all in a 5-gallon bucket that has a lid with a seat cushion on it. A 5-gallon bucket is one of the most useful items on a fishing trip. It helps carry gear to the boat, then it becomes a trash can or bait tank, and ultimately the soap bucket for washing the boat at the end of the day.
Hopefully everyone understands and adheres to the USCG requirements for safety gear you ‘Must-Have’ on a boat. Personal Flotation Devices (lifejackets), a Throwable (throwing cushion), Fire Extinguisher, Daytime/Nightime distress signals (flares), and some smaller boats might also require a paddle on board. Regarding PFD’s… there must be a lifejacket for every person on board, AND…it must fit them. So if you have kids on board, you must have child-sized PFD’s for each of them. PFD’s must be in a serviceable condition, that is, they can’t be moldy, torn or in poor condition. And both your PFD’s and Throwable must be ‘readily accessible’…they can’t be hidden under waterski’s or stowed in a compartment beneath all your fishing rods. When you need a lifejacket…you need a lifejacket. They need to be easy to access.
A couple other things to keep in mind regarding safety gear. Check your fire extinguisher regularly to insure it is compliant, and fully charged. Most have either a gauge or an indicator to let you know they’re good to go. Another thing that’s easy to overlook…check your flares for their serviceable/expiration date. Each one has a expire date printed on it. Replace them well in advance of their expire date. A violation of any of the above will get you a high-priced ticket from the Coast Guard or DNR. More importantly, these are items that you will definitely need if you ever run into problems on the water, and they could save your life.
OK…let’s talk about a couple things that aren’t actually ‘required’ gear on a boat, but I think they should be. And I’d suggest you give serious thought to incorporating them on your boat, whether it’s a fishing boat, a ski boat, or a pontoon boat.
#1. A functional marine band VHF radio with a high quality VHF antenna. The first response from most folks is… “I’ve got a cell phone, why do I need to add a VHF radio?” Here’s why. A lot of the areas where we go boating/fishing can have spotty cell service. Cell companies don’t spend a lot of money directing their cell tower coverage beyond the shoreline. So it’s entirely possible you could have limited, or no, service even on some of our inland lakes and coastal areas. Offshore, you’ll notice your cell service cuts out just a few miles beyond the beach. Also, when you make a call on a cell phone, the only person you contact is the person on the other end of the phone. If you call 911, you’ll most likely be connected to the land-based EMS or police dept. You’re on the water! They have to go through a lot of gyrations to get you in touch with the Coast Guard or Marine Patrol. And in an emergency, seconds or minutes can make the difference between a quick response and an uncontrolled dangerous situation. With a marine VHF, when you send out a distress call, everyone with a VHF radio (within range) hears your call for help, including the Coast Guard, Marine Patrol, local marinas, and boaters who might be closer and able to lend assistance. The net-net is usually a quicker response. A good quality VHF radio costs around $100 and a good quality VHF antenna costs about the same. So for just a couple hundred bucks, you have some added peace of mind, and the ability to call for help… and lend assistance to someone who might need it as well.
#2. A chartplotter/sonar that is equipped with digital cartography. Many anglers depend on chartplotters and their sonar units to help them find fish. And most of today’s fishfinders are actually combo units with both charting and sonar available on the same unit. For recreational boaters, a chartplotter can be a valuable asset for navigating unfamiliar waters, keeping you away from dangerous shoals, rocks, submerged obstacles, and simply staying in the main channel. They also have points of interest like marinas that offer fuel and slip space, boat ramps, and of course all the aids to navigation (channel markers). Beyond being an excellent fish-finding tool, they let you plot a course to your next destination, create waypoints and they are especially helpful when navigating at night and in nasty weather.
#3. SiriusXM Marine Weather is another “Gotta Have”. Everyone who spends time on the water will eventually be subject to inclement weather. Whether it’s a spring rain shower, a windy day that chops up the water, or a summer squall with torrential rain, lightning and high winds. And sometimes these potentially dangerous weather systems can sneak up on us, catching us off-guard, and a long way from safe harbor. Cell phone weather apps are a good tool to get forecasts and watch approaching weather systems. But once you lose cell service, you’re at the mercy of your own senses…looking at the sky, and feeling the temperature and wind change of a weather front on the way. Usually, by the time you realize this, it’s too late to make a run for the barn. You can wind up in a precarious situation that creates a lot of undue stress and danger to you and your passengers. The SiriusXM Marine Weather service gives you contemporaneous weather information, displayed right on your chartplotter screen. It shows a variety of weather-related information including storm fronts and their speed/direction, wind speed and direction, wave height, precipitation, and lightning. All of this information helps the skipper make prudent decisions on avoiding dangerous weather conditions, or the ability to potentially navigate around the worst of the storm. When the waves are breaking over the bow, and the rain is coming down in sheets, having a tool that doesn’t rely on cell service and is displayed on your charting screen is extremely valuable. It has been for me. SiriusXM Marine Weather is a subscription service, and it’s quite reasonably priced. You can suspend the service during the winter months and then re-start it when you put you boat back in the water when spring arrives. And, you get all the SiriusXM music, news and entertainment you’ve grown to love in your car and at home.
#4. Take a Boater Safety Course. When you think about it, operating a recreational boat doesn’t require any kind of competence certification. The money you pay for your registration is really just a tax. Having a registration number on the side of a boat doesn’t mean the person at the helm is truly capable of running the boat, or has any knowledge of the Rules of the Road for safe navigation. Take the time to attend a safe boating course offered by the US Power Squadron or your local Coast Guard Auxiliary. You’ll get a good foundation of the basics of operating a boat safely, understand all the safety gear you must have, and even get basic first aid instruction. Personally, I think every boat owner should be required to take one of these courses.
The other day, Buck The Wonder Dog told me he wanted to do a little fishing. So we loaded up the boat and headed out to chase down a few stripers. I knew the general area where I wanted to start trolling, so I really didn’t pay a lot of attention to my chartplotter on the way there. Instead, we just enjoyed the sunrise and the brisk ride about four miles up the lake.
My Simrad was set to display DownScan full screen, and when we arrived in the vicinity, I switched over to my multi-window view which shows DownScan, SideScan and the chart. Oops! No chart chip! I had removed it a few days earlier to download some screen captures, and forgot to put it back.
I still had all my waypoints, but I was just looking at the ‘base map’ on the screen. No contours, no creek channels, navigation aids, etc. Nevertheless, we fished over several of my favorite marks (I name most of my good waypoints so I can easily see which ones are the ‘go-to’ spots), and caught some nice fish.
When I got back home, I dropped in my chart chip to note exactly where we had been catching fish. Interestingly, those spots were very close to creek channels, and the convergence of creek channels. I’ve known those places are usually likely spots for fish, but it became even clearer to me just how important understanding bottom features are to a productive day on the water.
I’m convinced gamefish … both fresh and salt…use underwater channels, ledges, and other distinctive features as highways and travel routes. Much the same way that offshore pelagics use currents and water temperature to guide them on their migratory paths each season.
Once I saw the overlay of my waypoints on the chart, it was eye-opening. I even scrolled around to other fishy spots on the lake, and the vast majority were either right on top, or very close to, these kinds of features. I know this may seem quite elementary to a lot of anglers out there, but for me, it was a reminder of the significance of underwater highways.
It also lends some insight on how to fish a body of water for the first time. Get the chart…either digitally on your electronics…or a paper chart of the area. Plan out your stops for the day, and make your initial stops at the aforementioned places. You’ll be pleasantly surprised, just like me, how helpful an underwater roadmap can be to catching more fish.
Fall fishing is in full swing! Hartwell, and other lakes like Lanier, Murray, Clarks Hill, are all delivering nice stringers of hybrids and stripers. The water temperature is in the mid-70’s, and slowly dropping toward that magical 68 to 70 degree range. October can be one of the most productive, and fun, times to be on any of our regional lakes. So get out there and go catching!
Linesides are feeling the temperature drop, and the reduction in daylight hours. And they are ready to eat. There is plenty of bait for them to gorge on, and it is becoming more and more common to see explosions of bait wads throughout the entire lake. Spotted bass are joining in the feeding frenzy too.
Locating gamefish should be pretty easy right now. Find the bait, and gamefish won’t be too far away. And the bait can be holding over the deepest channels, as well as up on shallow humps. So this can make searching a little more time consuming, but once you find bait schools, it’s time to stop and fish. Use your Simrad SideScan to explore more of the water column out to 100 or more feet on either side of the boat. The bait schools (and the stripers) will show up clearly; and you can pinpoint their location.
Stripers, hybrids and white bass will eat from the same menu…and so will spots and largemouth, and even the gar and catfish we have in our lakes will readily slam a tasty blueback herring, shiner, or salty. When you locate the bait school, or see the ‘spaghetti’ on your screen to indicate active gamefish, drop your baits on a Carolina-style rig using a 1 to 2 ounce egg sinker above 4 feet of fluorocarbon leader with a #1 or #2 Gamakatsu octopus hook. Handle your baits with care, hooking the herring sideways through the nostrils. The water is still warm, compared to the water your baits came from, so check them frequently, and replace them when they appear sluggish. Keep those ‘expired’ baits in a separate bucket with a little water and a handful of salt in it. When the bite slows down, chop those baits and use them as chum to fire up the bite again.
While you are downlining, pitch out a freelined live bait on a very light rig (10 lb test) behind the boat. Keep this bait far away from your downlines to prevent tangling with your other baits. If you are slow trolling, you can put these freelines out on Perfect Planer boards as well.
This is also the time of year when you can experience some exciting topwater action. Have a MirroLure Top Dog in a Silver-Blue or Mullet color pattern rigged on a spinning rod to cast to surfacing schools. Project-X X-Rigs and the Mini-Mack can be extremely effective right now. Cast beyond the surfacing fish, and retrieve the rig through the school. If you can cast to the outer edge of the school, let it sink for a 5-count, you will probably pick up some bigger fish that are hanging away from the larger school of smaller fish. Chug Bugs and Zara Spooks will also bring some major topwater explosions. When the school sounds deep, throw a WhoopAss 1 ounce bucktail, tipped with a 3” Project-X Saucertail in the same vicinity. Let it sink 10 to 15 feet, and retrieve erratically, but slowly…and hang on!
You can get all your striper gear, lures and rigs at www.NutsAndBoltsFishing.com. We’ll get you hooked up! And watch our TV episodes on catching stripers and hybrids on CarbonTV.com.
By Capt. Cefus McRae, Nuts & Bolts of Fishing Series
It’s been a long time since I got a hook stuck in me. I try to be careful when tying on a lure, when landing fish, and when removing hooks from fish. But if you do enough fishing, at some point, you’re probably going to get stuck.
Now, probably 99% of the times I’ve felt the pointy end of the hook piercing my skin, I was able to react quickly enough to prevent it from doing much more than a simple prick of the skin. That other 1% of the time is when the hook becomes embedded beyond the barb. And that’s what happened last week.
In this particular case, I wasn’t even fishing. I was just cleaning up some tackle in my man-cave. As you can imagine, I’ve got waaaaaay too much fishing gear. At least my wife tells me that on a regular basis.
I’ve got a wire rack where I hang lures to dry after I’ve fished with them, or when I wash everything down after a trip to the ocean. I like to let my WhoopAss Bucktails dry in the air, versus drying in the tackle box. It keeps the filaments of the bucktail nice and straight, and it also keeps the hooks from rusting. Same goes for my hard plastic lures, spinnerbaits and trolling plugs.
On this particular occasion, I had just hung up a spinnerbait, and as I was taking my hand away, my finger got a little too close to a MirrOlure Top Dog….and in a split second, I was having a tug of war with the wire rack. The bottom treble hook of the Top Dog had completely buried itself into the tip of my middle finger.
In reality, I really didn’t even feel the hook go in. The hooks are super-sharp, and this was a freshly cleaned and hardly-used plug. Now I’ve got a huge plug dangling off the end of my finger, and each time I moved my hand the plug also moved, which caused the hook to move, which caused me to wince in pain.
After determining I wasn’t going to pass out from shock, the next step was to get the hook off the plug. Fortunately, I’ve got some great Cuda Cable Cutters, and after four snips the hook eye had a gap big enough to fall free from the eye screw on the plug.
You might say “Why not just cut the hook at the shank?”. If you do, then you have nothing to grab securely during the removal procedure. Better to keep the entire hook intact.
For the 1% of the time I’ve had an embedded hook in me…probably 95% of the time, I’ve been able to remove it myself. Either by pushing it on through enough to expose the barb…cut the barb off and then back the shank out. Or by doing the ‘piece of monofilament wrapped around the shank and jerking it out the way it came in’ method. Google both of these methods and you’ll never want to get near a fishing hook again. Neither of them are fun for the hook-ee. I tried both of these methods this time too. And neither of them proved fruitful. The net result was a lot of pain, and no success.
So, it’s off to the doctor we go.
I live on the lake. Our local doctors have seen plenty of hooks in anglers. The procedure was pretty simple. A little Novocain, and some surgical skills to expose the barb, then the sterilized bolt cutters. Doc closed the small incision with SuperGlue; and one Bugs Bunny bandaid later, I was walking out of the office. Oh, and I got a tetanus booster shot too.
Lessons learned. Now my wire lure drying rack has fewer lures, so it’s darn near impossible to touch two lures at the same time. And I’ve gained a new respect for just how sharp MirrOlure hooks are.
Wishing all of you many days of only putting your hooks in fish…
The summer heat is here! With daytime temps in the upper 90’s, the water surface temperature on our southeastern lakes and reservoirs has also risen dramatically. The stripers and hybrids have settled into their typical summer pattern, meaning they have gone deep. Although you might find them feeding throughout the water column during the heat of the day, the best time to catch linesides now is going to be early morning or just as the sun touches the treetops in the evening.
By the way, if you choose to fish into the evening, be sure to drop a HydroGlow underwater light over the side to attract baitfish…and it won’t be long until the stripers show up.
Start your search in the morning around creek mouths and mid-lake or mid-river humps that rise to 25 feet, which also have a main creek arm nearby. This would be a good place to drop a live herring on a #1 or #2 Gamakatsu octopus hook with a 3 to 4 foot fluorocarbon leader. I typically spool reels with 17 to 20 pound Stren mono and use 10 to 12 pound fluoro leader. That way, if a fish gets hung up in the standing timber, the leader will break below the egg sinker and the fish can swim away. Also be sure to have a MirroLure Top Dog rigged for topwater just in case a school of hybirds comes up to munch on a wad of baitfish.
If you want to fish mid-day, pull out your leadcore rods. Run 8 colors of leadcore with 30 feet of 15 pound mono as a leader. Tie on a 2 ounce WhoopAss Bucktail jig that is tipped with an expired herring, and pull the rig along the edges of the river channel and deep creek channels. If your lake has standing timber and you get hung up in the trees occasionally, then you know you are fishing in the right spots. Project-X X-Rigs rigged with 1/4 oz WhoopAss Bucktails and Capt. Mack’s ProBrellas are also catching fish in the river channels. Be sure you have an Umbrella Retriever, because you will definitely catch a tree, and you don’t want to leave your U-rig to the murky depths.
SideScan is a huge help when trolling, to let you see the schools that may be just beyond your trolling spread. Make a wide turn to move laterally toward the schools and you should have rods bending in a few minutes. Set the drags on your reels a little past the point where no line leaves the reel at your trolling speed. With too much drag, you may get a bite but the speed/power of the boat pulls the hook from the fish’s mouth. And a screaming drag also sounds cool!
The Power-Reeling bite is starting to fire up as well. You’ll be fishing in 60 to 90 feet of water that’s close to standing timber. Again, a 2 ounce WhoopAss Bucktail with a Project-X pearl saucertail will trigger the reaction strike. Free-spool the jig to the bottom and then wind up at a reasonably fast retrieve rate. The key to catching here is you need to see fish on your sonar. This is a great way to put some extra fish in the box once the trolling or live bait bite has slowed down.
Stay safe on the water. Use your SiriusXM Marine weather app to keep you informed on the afternoon pop-up storms so you don’t get caught in them. And be sure to stay hydrated.